Cafes in Mohandiseen

Mohandiseen is the mecca of cafes in Cairo. Due to the abundance of offices in this suburb, there is no dearth of places for people to take a break from a hectic schedule or have a quick working lunch. Café Pasqua, Café Spectra and Café Ciccio are the three more popular cafes that I frequent

CAFÉ PASQUA

Address: 60 Lebanon Street, Lebanon Square, Mohandeseen

If you have a lot of time on your hands, and coffee is on your mind, then head to Café’ Pasqua for the best café mocha in town. Pasqua has an indoor and an outdoor seating. The wooden chairs and granite table tops are very welcoming and the earthy tones used on the walls provide a very relaxed and cozy ambience, though the indoors can get a bit stuffy because of the smoke. A pack of cards, backgammon board game, and a host of magazines-some of them in their maiden issue-are available to occupy you. Or just sit back and listen to the music being played while puffing on a shisha. If you are looking for food, Pasqua does not disappoint-pizzas, crepes and pastas dominate the menu. Start with a French onion soup which is delicious. The vegetarian crepe is very tasty with the cheese nicely melted and the capsicums crisp. All the pizzas are good but my personal favourite at Pasqua is the good old margerita pizza. The soups are between LE12 to LE 14, the pizzas around LE 20. On week-ends it gets crowded and is a favourite haunt to watch the football matches on its three large screens.

CAFÉ SPECTRA

Address:3, Canal El Suez Street, between Syria street and Gameat El Dowal Street, Mohandessin.

Tucked away in a lane off the busy Gamat-al-Dwal al Arabia road, Café Spectra is a quieter and up-market -more a restaurant than a café, actually. It is almost hidden by foliage but once you walk through the long corridor and enter through the entrance on your left, you come into a decent-sized eating area. The place is dimly lit and is ideal for an intimate dinner. The items listed in the menu have illustrations against them-this is a boon to vegetarians like me! Though the illustrations help to ascertain what you are ordering, it does not prepare you for the huge portions! You will definitely need those take-away bags. The Spectra Vegi Combo satiates the curious diner-with nachos, fried mushrooms, onion rings, French fries, spring rolls served with 3 mouth-watering dips. With two of us sharing the platter, we still could not finish the entire thing. The tomato soup and the mushroom soup are delicious too. The ingredients used are fresh and the soups are not loaded with cornflour. The huge portions made sure that we did not get beyond the soup and starter round. However, we did try their brownie which is served with three scoops of ice-cream. Scrumptious! But again I would recommend sharing.

CAFÉ CICCIO

Café Ciccio is smaller as compared to the Café Spectra and Café Pasqua. However, it have now taken over the pavement outside. What had started out as a makeshift venue with some chairs and a TV screen put up to accommodate the huge crowds at the café during the football finals of the Africa Cup of Nations has now become a semi-permanent structure. With the onset of winter, the outdoor seating will have few takers and so they have taken over a place next door and are expanding. The menu is limited with a few kinds of pizzas and pastas. They have an extensive ice-cream menu and the desserts are delicious too.

After Eight

“After Eight” is a nice little pub in downtown. The exterior is not inspiring at all. The pub is at the end of an alley and at the entrance to the alley, there is a hoarding with the name “After Eight” in cursive handwriting. Below the hoarding, there is a “paan-beedi” kind of shop. Since it had rained the evening previous to our outing, there were puddles of water too. Not very encouraging and welcoming! I looked at my friend; she had frequented the place before and looked back confidently at me... and we plunged ahead…..and am glad I did!

The place is quite popular; for a long time, our group members were the only guests and I was wondering whether it would remain that way. Soon, people started pouring in and by the time we left, all the tables were taken and there was “standing room” only.

The place is very dimly lit. There is a bar in the corner and a DJ station behind the small, raised dance floor. The DJ started out with some slasa numbers and immediately the dance enthusiasts took to the floor. The Karaoke session had many takers too. The enthusiasm of the patrons to take a shot at singing was contagious and I impulsively let my friend propose my name for the song “Hotel California”-because that is the first song that came to my mind since I had been listening to it in the car. Of course, I immediately had second thoughts and begged and pleaded with my friend to get back the request paper but to no avail. Everyone was singing like a professional and my tension was mounting…every time a song would end, I would hold my breath and wait for the axe to fall-i.e. for my name to be called out. But I lucked out!-my friend had forgotten to mention the code number for the song and so the request was invalid.

Did not catch any grub there but saw platters of food being brought to the other tables. People were doing some “serious” eating ….so the food should be good. Their cocktail menu seems innovate though I did not much like the “After Eight” cocktail that I had ordered. It seemed like I was having “Pudin Hara”-for the uninitiated-Pudin Hara is a mint digestive used extensively in India.

Regretfully, we had to leave at the “witching hour” but it seemed as if the party had just begun….the place was getting smokier, louder, noisier ….will definitely go back!

And if you are wondering how you will you manage to get parking near the pub, there is some good news. Paid parking is available a little ahead of the pub on the opposite side. The charges are around LE 1/minute -at least the car will be safe!

Cover charge: LE 40
Address: 6, Kasr El Nile Street, Downtown

Trams in Cairo

The trams in Cairo are a non-polluting, albeit a slow mode of travel. Today, I took a tram ride in Heliopolis, a north-eastern suburb of Cairo- for the princely sum of 25 piasters! It was like going back in time when I rode on trams in Calcutta, India as a child.

The trams are popularly referred to as the “metro” in Cairo. The first tram line was constructed in the year 1898 in Cairo and was the first north-south public transportation route in Cairo. The tram network is gradually being phased out as it faces stiff competition from the underground metro and the minibuses. There are very trams in operation outside the northern suburb of Heliopolis. Though the trams are a cheap mode of transportation, they are extremely slow and thus convenient for short distances only.

The wide roads of Heliopolis with the tram lines running in the middle seem a world removed from the otherwise maddening congestion that characterizes Cairo. Today, after having waited for a tram for 15 minutes, saw one approaching and got ready for action and the experience. It was then that I realized that the tram was on the track away form me-I was standing on the wrong side! I tried to stop it by waving my hands but in despair saw the tram trundle past me, and stop about 50 metres away! I quickly walked to the other side and was ready for the next tram that came. Boarding a tram requires some deft maneuvering since the opening is narrow-definitely advisable to lose those extra inches before attempting a tram ride. As the tram slowly chugged along, looking out of the open window, it seemed to me that I was watching the world pass by in slow motion. In today’s fast-paced world, traveling in a tram maybe a “luxury” but it is definitely a stress-buster. Can we still not retain the trams for their charm and beauty, even if they might have outlived their relevance?

“Egyptian sexual harasser jailed” – I was heartened to read this! The victim, Ms Noha Oustath, bravely went public about her harassment and pursued the matter. This has resulted in the conviction of the harasser with three years’ rigorous punishment being awarded to him. You can read all about it on http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7682951.stm

Earlier this month, during the Eid holidays, there had been a disturbing incident of a group of men sexually harassing some women in Mohandisseen on Gamaet-al-Dwal al arabiya street Later, in an incident outside the Metro Cinema in downtown, two women were groped and attempt also made to tear off their clothing.

More details on http://www.dailystaregypt.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=17001

Violence against women is prevalent in every country-some are highlighted and some incidents never come to light because of the reluctance of the victim to speak about the crime. Their reticence is understandable because most of the people, including the victim themselves, would blame the women for provoking the attack. In the case of Noha Oustath too, she was advised by the people who were a witness to her ordeal to forget about the matter and not go to the police.

A well-defined law pertaining to sexual harassment, providing for a framework for the victims to report the harassment and punish the perpetrators, is a pre-requisite to combat this phenomenon. Even then, the prejudices against women-it is the way a woman dresses and her attitude that incites such harassment-will limit the chances of reporting and conviction.

SIWA-BEST BUYS

The Siwans used to wear some beautiful silver jewellery such as the kind displayed in the Siwa House. Some good reproductions are available at the shops in Siwa Town and if you are fond of jewellery, then they make a good buy.

Beautifully embroidered shawls in blue are very distinctive of the Siwan craft and are available at LE 250 onwards.

Siwa abounds in palm trees and the date-palm fronds are used extensively to weave baskets, plates, mats and other items. Baskets woven from date palm fronds with lids are used by Siwans to distribute sweets on Eid. Also, plates in various sizes with red leather centres are available and can be used to serve bread, sweets etc.

Siwa is known for its dates and olives. At the foot of Fortress of Shali, there is a shop that sells olive products. Try their Olive dressing and Tomato dressing –they are delicious and can be easily used as salad dressing. Many brands of dates are available but I believe that the Jawhra brand is the best. Dates are also available in the pulp form with the seeds removed which can be easily used to make chutneys-in India, a sweet chutney made from dates, tamarind and jaggery is extremely popular.

LAST DAY OF RAMADAN AND NO FOOD

What is it with all the eateries in Egypt? For the last day of the holy month of Ramadan, we were in Marsa Matrouh. And most of the restaurants were closed. My friends’ desire to sample some local fish went unfulfilled. Even the international food chains like Pizza Hut, KFC and Chicken Tikka were closed. The reason being that the following day was Eid and everyone was busy with preparations for the big day that marks the culmination of the fasting month of Ramadan. There would be prayers to be offered early in the morning, new clothes to be bought, sweets to be made etc. The local eateries probably would be having some orders to be fulfilled for the next day and hence were closed for regular business. The sweet shops were of course doing brisk business.

After driving around the town for some time in search of dinner, we finally had burgers at Mc Donald’s-the only eatery that was open that night in Marsa Matrouh. It was a valuable lesson learnt -The day before Eid is probably not the best time to sample Egypt’s culinary delights!

Cairo to Siwa-By Road

The distance from Cairo to Siwa is a total of around 750 kilometres. If you are driving to Siwa, the best route to take is Siwa to El Alamein to Marsa Matrouh to Siwa. The journey can be completed in 8-9 hours with a couple of short stops in between.

From Cairo, get onto the Alexandria Desert Road. Once you cross “Masters”, a popular stop for tourist buses, look out for a signboard showing the way to El Alamein. You will have to take a U-turn and then a right to get onto the road leading to El Alamein. It is also the road leading to Porto Marina. It is quite a straight road right upto the city of El Alamein. Here you will find signs directing you to Marsa Matrouh. Once you are onto the straight road to Marsa Matrouh, the drive is again easy till you hit a sign which shows the way to the Marsa Matrouh city, a little to the right. Do not be tempted to take this road, but go on straight. Before you reach the gates of the Marsa Matrouh city, there will be a sign directing you to Siwa-you will have to take a U-turn and then turn right.

Right till you hit Siwa town, the road is fairly straight and will pose no problems.

A couple of points to be remembered that will make the trip easier.

§ Fill up on petrol before leaving Marsa Matrouh. There is no gas station on the road from Marsa to Siwa.

§ A few kilometers onto the Marsa-Siwa road, some construction work is going on and there is a stretch of ungravelled road for about 10 km. So, it is slow going.

§ Once you are onto the road to Marsa Matrouh, there is a place that you could use to break for a quick bite. You cant miss it –on the right side of the road you will see the KFC hoarding . Pizza Hut, KFC, Costa Coffee are all here, plus a couple of restaurants that are about to open. The toilet at the Pizza Hut is clean enough.

“Ana tahban!”-"I am tired!"

“Am not coming to work today. I am tired.” How many of us have the luxury to say this and how many times? But I heard this at least three times today.

The carpenter, the plumber and an electrician were all scheduled to come to my house today for various repair jobs, jobs that had been pending since Ramadan. When they did not turn up at the designated time, I called each of them and surprisingly was told by all three that they could not make it today as they were tired!! Tired?? And maybe, I am tired of trying to get competent people to come and do the maintenance work at my house!


And I had thought that my woes would last only till Eid-after which all the jobs pending in my house could get completed. Now I understand that my wait may be a bit longer – I will probably have to wait for the effects of the Eid celebrations to wear offJ


You know a friend told me recently that she had read somewhere that Egyptians are the fourth happiest people in the world. Now I believe it! They really take no stress!

Ramadan-Deserted Roads and Traffic Snarls

Over the past month of Ramadan, the traffic scene in Cairo has been different-empty roads around the time of Iftar and traffic snarls of the kind that can only be imagined

A couple of days back, when we decided to go to City Stars, we chose to leave at 5.45 p.m-these days the iftar takes place at 5.50 and we thought that this would be the best time since the roads would be empty.

Definitely, there was not much traffic but the few cars that were on the road were in a tearing hurry to get to their destination-their drivers feeling hungry and ready to risk life and limb to get to food. With hubby at the wheel, it was a nightmare dodging these cars that were driving as if they are auditioning for the Formula One races. Might be a good idea to keep a few dates and fruits in the car to break the fast.

And then last evening, there was the biggest ever traffic snarl that I have seen on the Gamaet-el-Dwal road. Cars standing bumper to bumper, moving an inch at a time. Even the by-lanes were packed with cars trying to get onto the main roads. While walking to a friend’s hosue, I had to frequently stop to allow a car to pass. And in the midst of this, there was an ambulance with siren blaring trying to move forward, but with very little luck. With repeated requests issued on the loudspeaker by the driver, the ambulance managed to crawl forward at a snail’s pace. Its movement was hampered by the other cars that had aligned themselves with the ambulance and were trying to take advantage of the break in traffic to get ahead. I only hope that the person concerned received medical help in time.

Today is the last day of fasting for the month of Ramadan and most of the government offices are closed. This morning, the roads are deserted. After a “night out” last evening, it seems that people are resting and recouping their energy. But it is only the lull before the storm-I can only imagine the traffic after iftar this evening when people come out in large numbers to celebrate Eid.

Names for streets and bridges

26th of July, 6th of October, 15th of May….these are just not dates but names of important streets in Cairo. When I first arrived in Cairo and saw these dates as names for the bridges and streets, I found it a bit strange. But these are no ordinary dates-they occupy a special significance in Egypt’s history.

26th July is the name of the bridge connecting Mohandissen to Zamalek-an arterial road in many ways and always extremely crowded. This bridge has been named for that day in the year 1952 when the extremely unpopular King Farouk abdicated and left the Egyptian shores. Thus Egypt was once again ruled by egyptians for the first time since the Persians invaded Egypt. The 26th of July bridge culminates into the 26th of July street in Zamalek, home to a host of restaurants and shops.

The 6th of October bridge and 6th of October city are named for that date in the year 1973, when Egypt launched a surprise attack on Israel and succeeded in breaking through the Bar Lev Line, across the Suez Canal. Since that year, this day has been celebrated in Egypt. In the year 1981, the then President of Egypt Anwar Sadat was assassinated during the annual 6th October victory parade in Cairo. It is also a national holiday.

The Tenth of Ramadan city is located some 55 km from Cairo. The name comes from the fact that the date 6th of October in the year 1973 corresponded to the 10th day of the Muslim festival of Ramadan-and hence the name.

Am not sure about the significance of the date 15th of May. In the year 1948, this date marked the commencement of the Arab-Israeli conflict and the first in a series of wars fought between the two parties.

In India, most of the streets are named after famous historical figures. Naming streets and bridges for important historical dates is something unique that I have come across in Cairo.