Being a Tourist in Egypt

The hassles of being a tourist in Egypt are many. It all starts with the differential pricing for entry into the famous monuments and the other tourist spots. As foreigners, even as resident expats, we pay nearly quadruple the amount that the locals pay as entrance fees. Maybe, this is justified, given the argument that Egypt being a poor country, most of the locals would be unable to visit these monuments, if they had to pay the higher entrance fees. However, the harassment by the touts at the tourist sites, harassment by shop owners and stall owners is unprecedented and legendary. And you need to be made of sterner stuff to withstand this hassle, without getting your blood pressure up.

Particularly bad are the touts that surround you and your car as soon as you come within sight of the Giza pyramids. If nothing else works, they just jump on the bonnet of your car to stake their claim on you…as their client! If this is not enough to make you feel like turning tail and running away, their persistent demands to purchase souvenirs, to get onto a camel or a horse surely cannot be borne by the faint hearted.

Added to all this, if you happen to be a light-skinned, blue-eyed, blond tourist, then your woes are doubled. When my friend who fitted the above description was visiting me in Cairo, she was met with requests for touching her hair, posing with her for pictures, and also some audacious marriage proposals. All the prices were quoted in dollars or euros-a LE 5 item will be quoted as USD 5 or Euro 5.

The Khan-el-Khalili vendors welcomed you with the comment “You want help in spending your money?” As if we are totally daft and have no clue as to what to do with our money. But the most original line came from this vendor. My friend requested a shop owner to help choose good pieces as gifts to take back home. She said ”you must help me….you know what will be a pretty piece”. The shopkeeper said “you are pretty!” A potential candidate for writing the dialogues for the next Bollywood blockbuster!

If you are eating at a road side eatery at the “Khan”, you will have to ward off people selling everything from scarves to the evil eye. Even sitting at the historic Fishawi café is fraught with vendors offering you a wallet at every sip of your shay bil “na’na (mint tea) and every puff of your sheesha! A firm “La Shukran” (no, thank you) is effective in most cases, except the most persistent.

However, despite all the hassle, the memories that you carry back with you are that of the endearing warmth of the people here, the majesty and beauty of the Islamic, Pharonic and the Coptic monuments. And of course, you must have heard of the saying that once you have drunk from the Nile, you will return again to Cairo.

Going Green in Egypt

This article of mine was published in Daily News (Egypt) on April 17, 2009

Relocating to Cairo recently, with its high levels of air pollution, spurred me to scout for environmentally-friendly products that could easily be incorporated into one’s lifestyle. And I was pleasantly surprised by the plethora of products and ideas that are available to evaluate our carbon-conscious options.

The “Zebaleen” women of Moqattam have perfected the art of recycling as they transform scraps donated by textile houses into rugs, bed spreads and quilts using patchwork and weaving techniques.

As part of a unique “learn and earn” program initiated by the Association for the Protection of the Environment (APE), their creations of cushion covers and wall hangings can make even the most mundane of interiors look interesting.

Working with their bright aprons and oven mitts in the kitchen makes a much pleasurable experience. Color-coordinating bags with my outfits is possible with the lovely selections made from left-over cloth, available at the shop on the APE premises in Moqattam. And the prices do not even burn a hole in my pocket. You can also find reusable bags for a trip to the grocers’, eliminating the need to use plastic bags.

I had almost decided against printing visiting cards — the thought of the number of trees that would have to be felled for my “calling card” deterred me. But then the recycled paper made as part of yet another project under the APE umbrella solved the dilemma. Vividly colored and beautifully patterned, their recycled paper makes for a unique option.

Though e-cards are easier, I prefer the old-fashioned way of receiving and gifting cards. I particularly like the idea of giving embroidered gift cards made of recycled paper as it will not only make the process of gifting more environmentally-friendly, but also be something out of the ordinary.

Using handmade paper stationery like envelopes, files, notepads and diaries can be the first step to reducing your carbon footprint at work. Instead of using wrapping paper for gifts, their gift bags made of recycled paper can be used time and again.

Organic foods are also the need of the hour amid rising concerns of the ill effects on health resulting from the consumption of food that is grown using pesticides. “The farmers in Siwa oasis have traditionally not used any chemical fertilizers and we offer them incentives to continue farming using organic methods,” said Heba Abdella, Siwa Initiative project director with the Environment Quality Initiative. Olives and palm groves flourish in the fertile Siwa oasis and under the Siwa Initiative, the farmers are trained in harvesting and picking techniques to ensure the highest quality products.

Apart from olive oil, green and black pickled olives, olive jam and semi-dried dates, a number of agri-culinary products like date syrup, sycamore jam and extra virgin olive oil are also produced and marketed under “Siwa Organics.” I have found their flavored olive oil dressings extremely handy to whip up appealing salads.

Fortunately, now I will not have to stock on herbal soaps and cosmetics from back home since I have discovered the homegrown Egyptian brand of Nefertari. “All Nefertari products are made using 100 percent natural ingredients which do not include any chemicals, artificial fragrances or colors and are considered to be 100 percent environmentally friendly,” said Dr Mona Erian, who launched the company in 1998 by creating a pure olive oil soap.

Since then, shampoos, bath and body care products have been added to Nefertari’s stable of products. Their milk bath is styled on Cleopatra’s famed use of goat milk for bathing. Attractive packaging using 100 percent natural material makes these products more endearing. Especially beautiful are the handmade baskets and containers identical to those used by the Pharoah Queens.

My quest to go green has received an impetus from a number of organizations and associations that are active in the realm of environmental protection in Egypt. Local groups like Tree Lovers’ Association of Maadi and Keep Egypt Clean advocate some practical ideas that can contribute towards a cleaner environment and help in reducing our carbon footprints. For example, starting a worm compost system under the sink can produce the richest of fertilizers that can be then be used in a rooftop garden. A simple cardboard box with compartments can be used to sort the garbage.
With greater awareness and countless number of products and ideas, healthy living is within our grasp in Egypt. Taking a step in this direction, I am going to request my bank to send me only e-statements and discontinue hard copies and also switch to online banking to pay my bills.

Siwa Organics shop: 17 Ahmed Hishmat Rd., Zamalek,

Cairo Nefertari shop: For more information, call (012) 313 5256

APE shop, Mokattam: For directions, call (02) 2341 2723

You can read it on http://www.thedailynewsegypt.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=21163