Showing posts with label egyptian festival. Show all posts
Showing posts with label egyptian festival. Show all posts

Monday, September 22, 2008

Ramadan and Iftars

This is my first Ramadan in Egypt and such a different experience from the Ramadan in Saudi Arabia. Majority of the Egyptians fast during this holy month- no food or water from sunrise to sunset. However, most of the cafes and restaurants are open during the day for the expatriates and the non Muslims. This is in sharp contrast to Saudi Arabia where eating or drinking in public places during the holy month of Ramadan is a punishable offence. Some of the other gulf countries like Dubai and Bahrain too are fairly strict in their observance of “no eating and drinking in public places” rule. Egypt, with its bustling tourism industry is much more “open” in this regard.

The offices work on curtailed hours like that in the any other Muslim country; and the expat non-muslim management in some companies also observes the fast during the office hours to show solidarity with their Egyptian workforce.

Cairo’s roads are the most unsafe at the best of times and an hour before the
Iftar is probably even more dangerous and nerve racking with traffic at its peak coupled with reckless driving as the people are trying to reach their destinations to break their fast. During Iftar and for an hour after that, Cairo roads are blessedly empty and it is the best time to go out and get your grocery shopping done as I discovered a couple of days back when I went to Metro; no crowds at the shop and no long queues at the checkout counters. However, this is not possible in Saudi Arabia as all establishments close before Iftar and open only after the Iftar and the Maghrib prayers

Of course, the one thing that is universally common during Ramadan, whether it be Saudi Arabia, the gulf countries or Egypt is the difficulty to get any work done- whether at office or at home. For example, my landlady had been trying to get hold of a plumber to take care of a leaking toilet in our house and she told us how difficult it is to get anyone to come out and work during Ramadan. And when she finally managed to send over a plumber, he has done a stop-gap kind of repair that will tide us through the remaining days of Ramadan with a promise to come and complete the remaining work- but only after the end of Ramadan and EID.

There is a lot more that needs to be taken care of in our house but even we have now adopted the refrain-“After EID”!

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Sham El Nessim

Yesterday, the park in front of my house on the Gamat-al-Dwal al arabiya road was filled with families out on a picnic. They were carrying baskets of food and drinks and had laid out mats on the grass. The children were busy playing whereas their parents lazed on the mats and enjoyed the salted fish, coloured eggs and spring onions.

It was Sham-el-Nesseim, a non-Muslim, non-Christian festival that has been celebrated in Egypt since the Pharonic times (around 4500 years ago). “Sham” in Arabic means “sniff” and “Nessim “ means “breeze”-therefore this festival literally means “sniffing the breeze”.

The day starts with families having breakfast together-salted fish (fiseekh), boiled coloured eggs and spring onions are the staple on this day. These foods have Pharonic symbolism-for example salted fish symbolizes fertility and welfare, eggs symbolize new life and green onions are thought to keep the evil eye away. Families spend the day together, going to the parks, near the river Nile or by the sea.

My landlady’s mom who stays just below us offered us some boiled eggs-she called it the “Egg of Upper Egypt”. Apparently this form of coloring the egg is very popular in Upper Egypt-the egg is boiled with onion skin and kohlingen, an Egyptian spice. The onion skin imparts the eggs with a brown colour. She served it with “dukka”, another Egyptian spice, which has as its base hazelnuts or chickpeas together with pepper, coriander seeds, sesame seeds and cumin seeds. The ingredients are ground together to a coarse powder. “Dukka” can also be used as a dip for breads along with olive oil. There are many recipes available for dukka - you can find one of them on http://shopping.guardian.co.uk/food/story/0,,1591304,00.html