TRIP TO THE WHITE DESERT

What is your worst nightmare? Your car has a flat tyre in the middle of the desert? What would seem like a mirage in the desert? Your friend comes along in a fully equipped car to give you a lift. Sounds like a movie script? This is exactly what me and my friends went through on our trip to the White Desert over the week-end. Our mini-van had a flat tyre, when we just an hour away from Bawiti, where we would change into a 4x4 vehicle. Our driver had called for help and we were waiting, when a van came along which had enough spare space to accommodate the eight of us! A friend of mine was in the vehicle and had stopped when she saw me waiting outside our van!

Despite the somewhat disastrous start, I would recommend the circuit from the Bahariyya oasis to Farfara as a great week-end getaway from Cairo-the vastness of the landscape and the natural formations make you and your problems seem so insignificant. Too poetic? Let us get onto hard facts.

WHEN TO GO-The peak season is from October to March. April onwards, it becomes too hot during the day, though the nights will still be cooler. October, November and March seem the better time to go-December, January and February will be too cold.

THE CIRCUIT
Day 1-Departure from Cairo at 7.00 a.m. After lunch at the “El-Hegaz Oasis” in Bawiti, head out to the Crystal Mountain. The rock formations here are largely made of crystal. A huge rock made entirely of quartz crystal is easily recognizable by the large hole through its middle. If you are keen on trekking, there is a mountain here that you can try-I found the climb a little tough since there is no clear path. A piece of advice-while descending, try to dig in your feet as much as possible in the sand; this way you will skid for a shorter distance. Always descend sideways and in a zigzag manner-these are the “pearls of wisdom” that I garnered from my husband and friends on this trip!:-)

Next stop-En route to the White Desert, take your time exploring a place with canyons that has cliff like monoliths. Our driver called it the “warda” or “flower-like” formations. The place has an eerie feeling, but is also beautiful. These formations throw long shadows and you can spend some time “being one with nature” at this spot

Before reaching the camp-site, on the other side of the road, the wind-eroded rocks, resembling “mushrooms” provide great and interesting photo opportunities.

Camp at the Sahra al-Beida- a stunningly beautiful landscape with rock formations jutting out of the sand. The wind has eroded the rocks into different shapes and many times you have the feeling that you are looking at a woman’s face, a sphinx, or a horse standing on its hind legs etc.

If you are lucky enough to be out in the White Desert on a full moon night, you can enjoy looking over the desert in the night. - By night, the White desert looks as if it is covered with a layer of snow.

Nocturnal visits by the desert fox is a definite possibility and hence for the faint hearted, it is advisable to completely zip up the tent. We saw a couple of “baby foxes” near our vehicles-I have been told that they are harmless, though. Enjoy being away from all the noise and pollution- the silence here is “deafening” and your voice carries a long way.

Day 2-Last stop on our itinerary-the Back Desert or Sahra Suda, so called because of the black powder that covers the ground. Climb the Gebel az-Zuqaq for some great views across the Black Desert. The way to the top is easily marked, while coming down it can get a bit slippery because of the loose rocks and stones.

This is the itinerary for spending lovely two days in the desert. However, depending on your inclination and time availability, you can extend your trip. But even if you are only slightly adventurous, hardly interested in trekking and reluctant to face any kind of uncertainties, this is still an experience not to be missed. If you have parents visiting you, I would recommend taking them on this trip-I took mine along. Initially, I was apprehensive that this trip may be a little “rough” for them but they enjoyed themselves thoroughly and found it to be a great experience. We also had a six month old baby in our group and she seemed to have enjoyed it too!

But to ensure that everything goes smoothly and you face no setbacks, here are a few things to keep in mind for preparing for the trip:-

• Make sure that the operator who is providing you the transportation is reliable and has a good infrastructure in place. Ask him the question-“If the vehicle were to break down in the middle of the road, what back-up plan he has in place?” Believe me; this is very important-as we discovered the hard way!!
• Do your research; determine the places you want to visit and ascertain from the operator that he will be covering all of them.
• Some things that you must carry for a night out in the desert-flashlight, mosquito repellant, a light sweater. The tour operator will provide you with heavy blankets, mattresses and tents.
• Wear long sleeved T-shirts to keep them out of the sun during the day and to keep out the cold during the night. Sneakers and sun glasses are a must.
• Carry some light snacks for in-between snacking. Small tetra packs of fruit juices are handy since you tend to feel thirsty very often.
• Make sure that your camera battery is fully charged and has enough memory -believe me, you will want to click every rock formation.
• And the cardinal rule-Don’t leave your house without sunblock!