Monday, December 1, 2008

Coptic Cairo

Coptic Cairo is a part of Old Cairo and is home to a number of Coptic churches. It is an important destination for the 12 million Coptic Christians in Cairo.

Early in the 2nd century, the Romans established a fortress here that was known as the Babylon fortress. The fortress had 5 layers of stone and then 3 layers of brick One of the major attractions of Coptic Cairo, the
Hanging Church is built on one part of the fortress of Babylon and hence gets its name. This church has no domes and is rectangular in shape. Its inverted ceiling, made of wood, is representative of Noah’s Ark. As part of the “architectural re-cycling”, a number of marble columns from old Roman churches can be found in the Hanging church. Many of the wooden panels in the church are inlaid with ivory and ebony, without the use of adhesive, leaving just enough space to allow for expansion. Though in earlier times, the churches had frescoes on walls; the Hanging church has wood icons as they are portable and could be rescued in times of attack. In the year 451 A.D, the Church of Egypt split from the Church of Rome because of dogmatic differences. During mass, in Coptic churches, men sit on the left aisle and the women on the right aisle.


The Hanging Church suffered destruction in the 9th century and has been restored since then a number of times. At some places, Arabic writing can be found on its walls; this was added post the decree which necessitated that all writing must be bi-lingual. Egypt was the first country to accept the infant Jesus after his flight from
Herod. The palm trees that provided the dates to the Holy Family when they were in hiding is to be found in the forecourt of the Hanging Church.




The newly renovated
Coptic Museum has some wonderful displays relating to Coptic Christianity in Egypt. The displays have been arranged chronologically and it is easy to see how the early Coptic art and artifacts were influenced by the Greek and Roman myths. Thereafter as the understanding pertaining to Christianity grew, a mix of the Roman and Christian art can be found. For example, there is a figure of a saint dressed in Roman clothes. The Pharonic art potrayed the figures sideways whereas the figures under Coptic art gave a frontal view. The most amazing display of mashrebeya can be found in the Coptic museum and the lavishly painted wooden ceilings are originals taken from homes of the wealthy Coptics in Egypt. Texts from the Nag Hammadi Codex are on display here.


The Hall of the Churches of Old Cairo has many beautiful displays taken from old churches. Candlesticks and bible cases made of metal and inlaid with coloured glass, some beautiful wooden frescoes from old churches and even a door from St Barbara Church (6th century) can be found. You cannot carry your camera inside the museum




Other interesting churches to visit in the Coptic area are the St Sergius Church and the Ben Ezra synagogue.


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